Felix Carreira and the professional Gibbon Slackline team travel across the country on their Dodge Fiat College Tour and make a stop at the University of Utah during the annual Redfest event.
10 thoughts on “Gibbon Tour”
Is he falling or doing a trick? I like his position, toning seems a little hot
It is a little warm. I work on about 4 different monitors and each one has just a tiny bit of a temperature difference. How do you deal woith that? I have one at home, a laptop for in the field and then the one at the office. If I remember correctly he is doing some crazy flip off the slackline onto the pads.
I meant more that the highlights seem really bright. It’s tough lighting, so you’re trying to balance out the highlights while keeping the shadows light enough to see the guy’s eyes. But I think darkening the shot would improve it.
Thanks for the advice Trent. I always question which photos would look better with darker shadows over slightly blown out highlights in order to show detail in the darker areas.
Seems like we have that kinda light all the time down here in St. George. Ya gotta under expose. Back in the film days I always cut my ISO in half unless I was shooting sports (even before I moved to Southern Utah) and I still find myself underexposing just about everything by a stop. I usually wind up lightening in post by half a stop or so but I find it better to try and lighten than darken.
That anonymous comment was me, sorry ’bout that, guess I wasn’t logged in.
I assumed it was you Jud. I’m actually a St. Georgian, growing up there for about 25 yrs and now I’m up in SLC finishing schooling. After reading many photo books I’ve learned that shooting for highlights or underexposing is all personal preference. I usually shoot for highlights so that I don’t lose details in the shadows but I try to not overexpose and lose detail in the highlights but midday is obviously tough to meet in the middle. I started with landscape photo in the backcountry of southern Utah and so I assume that the methods of shooting landscape and PJ are different as far as exposure? I usually carry a flash with me for fill around this time of day.
I used to carry a flash around all the time but a couple years ago discovered that if I underexpose by a touch, then use the handy dandy fill feature in the Photoshop raw converter and a little dodging for those stubborn shadows on peoples faces, I can get away without it and get way more natural looking images. The underexposure keeps the highlights from getting too blown out and gives you richer tones throughout the image. In my experience, it’s way easier to fill in the shadows if you need too, especially with the raw converter fill tool, than it is to get those highlights back if they’re blown out.
Good advice, Jud. And with the latest camera raw you can bring back blown highlights as well as lost shadows. It’s pretty amazing the detail you can bring back.
As for exposure, another thing you can do is just use the same setting in every daylight situation. If the sun is out, I’m usually shooting at 1/1600th @ f4, ISO 100 or the equivalent. No need to even think about it, then you can adjust with RAW as needed.
Is he falling or doing a trick? I like his position, toning seems a little hot
It is a little warm. I work on about 4 different monitors and each one has just a tiny bit of a temperature difference. How do you deal woith that? I have one at home, a laptop for in the field and then the one at the office. If I remember correctly he is doing some crazy flip off the slackline onto the pads.
I meant more that the highlights seem really bright. It’s tough lighting, so you’re trying to balance out the highlights while keeping the shadows light enough to see the guy’s eyes. But I think darkening the shot would improve it.
Thanks for the advice Trent. I always question which photos would look better with darker shadows over slightly blown out highlights in order to show detail in the darker areas.
Here’s a quick version of what I’m thinking…(mine on left)… http://utahphotojournalism.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/Screen-Shot-2012-09-25-at-2.34.16-PM.png
Seems like we have that kinda light all the time down here in St. George. Ya gotta under expose. Back in the film days I always cut my ISO in half unless I was shooting sports (even before I moved to Southern Utah) and I still find myself underexposing just about everything by a stop. I usually wind up lightening in post by half a stop or so but I find it better to try and lighten than darken.
That anonymous comment was me, sorry ’bout that, guess I wasn’t logged in.
I assumed it was you Jud. I’m actually a St. Georgian, growing up there for about 25 yrs and now I’m up in SLC finishing schooling. After reading many photo books I’ve learned that shooting for highlights or underexposing is all personal preference. I usually shoot for highlights so that I don’t lose details in the shadows but I try to not overexpose and lose detail in the highlights but midday is obviously tough to meet in the middle. I started with landscape photo in the backcountry of southern Utah and so I assume that the methods of shooting landscape and PJ are different as far as exposure? I usually carry a flash with me for fill around this time of day.
I used to carry a flash around all the time but a couple years ago discovered that if I underexpose by a touch, then use the handy dandy fill feature in the Photoshop raw converter and a little dodging for those stubborn shadows on peoples faces, I can get away without it and get way more natural looking images. The underexposure keeps the highlights from getting too blown out and gives you richer tones throughout the image. In my experience, it’s way easier to fill in the shadows if you need too, especially with the raw converter fill tool, than it is to get those highlights back if they’re blown out.
Good advice, Jud. And with the latest camera raw you can bring back blown highlights as well as lost shadows. It’s pretty amazing the detail you can bring back.
As for exposure, another thing you can do is just use the same setting in every daylight situation. If the sun is out, I’m usually shooting at 1/1600th @ f4, ISO 100 or the equivalent. No need to even think about it, then you can adjust with RAW as needed.